| Missouri Environment and Garden | Volume 8, No. 8 |
| News for Missouri’s Gardens, Yards and Resources | August 2002 |
In spite of the fact that recent heat indexes have hit the triple
digits in Missouri, it is time to start thinking about fall planting.
The fall-planted and spring-flowering (Dutch) bulbs remain a popular
item and should be appearing soon on the shelves of your favorite
garden center. One of the more popular fall-planted bulbs is the
daffodil. Few garden plants provide as much pleasure with minimal
effort as do daffodils. They represent one of the most vigorous and
colorful flowers of spring. With adequate drainage they will thrive
in most Missouri soils and are relatively pest-free.
Much confusion has existed over the years concerning the proper name
for this flower. Should they be called daffodil or narcissus?
Actually, both are considered correct. Narcissus is the generic
botanical name given to this plant back in the 1700’s. In England,
however, the plant was commonly known as daffodil, and this term was
carried to other countries by English-speaking people as they migrated
from their native land. Additionally, some people erroneously call
this plant a jonquil. True jonquils, in fact, represent one of the 13
divisions or classes of narcissus. Therefore, it is correct to say
that all jonquils are narcissi, but not all narcissi are jonquils.
Other very popular divisions of narcissi include the trumpet narcissi,
whose tube-like trumpet (or cup) is longer than its outer petals; the
large-cupped narcissi, whose cup is more than one-third but less than
the full length of the petals; and the small-cupped narcissi whose cup
is less than one-third the length of the petals. The double narcissi
represent another very popular division and are characterized by large
flowers with many petals.
Perhaps the most demanding need of daffodils is good soil drainage. Bulbs planted in poorly drained location weaken quickly, fail to flower after the first year, and develop bulb rots. Incorporation of organic matter into a soil usually helps improve drainage when it is a problem. Daffodils should have sunlight in order to develop the bulb and flower year after year; ideally, this would be at least five hours of sunlight every day. However, since much of their growth and photosynthesis occurs early-before trees foliate-they may be planted under or near trees. Avoid planting them on the north sides of buildings or near tall, dense evergreens. Daffodils do not require heavy fertilization. When preparing the soil for daffodils, incorporate a complete garden fertilizer with a 1:4:4 or 1:3:3 N-P-K ratio (e.g. 6-24-24) at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of area. Be sure to mix this fertilizer thoroughly with the soil; never place it directly in the bottom of a hole in which a daffodil bulb will be placed.
Daffodils must have time to develop a good root system before cold temperatures set in for the winter. Therefore, early-to-mid October is an ideal time to plant daffodils in Missouri. Later planting can be successful in years with warm, mild falls. Select large, firm, double-nosed bulbs that are free from any obvious defect or disease. "Double-nosed" is the term given to bulbs containing two growing points that should result in multiple flowers the first year following planting. When planting, space daffodils six to 12 inches apart, depending on the cultivar selected and flowering effect desired. Fuller displays of flowers require closer spacing and more frequent division of the bulbs. Daffodils should be planted so the base of the bulb is about six inches below the soil surface. In lighter soils, the depth can be increased to eight inches. Daffodils must have good moisture to flower well. If rainfall if sparse, water the bulbs well after planting and throughout the fall. Application of an organic form of mulch (e.g. pine needles) can help to retain moisture as well as keep soil temperature uniform and warm. The latter is important to allow the bulb to develop an extensive root system before soil temperatures cool.
As mentioned previously, daffodils are relatively carefree and "naturalize" quite easily in Missouri. Established bulbs should be fertilized lightly each spring just as their leaves emerge from the soil. A handful of garden or bulb fertilizer around the base of each clump is sufficient; be sure not to get any fertilizer on the leaves themselves. Both during and after flowering, daffodils require adequate water to make new growth. Fortunately, in Missouri, this occurs at a time of the year when spring rains tend to provide a goodly amount of moisture. In years with dry spring weather, supplemental irrigation is recommended. Daffodil bulbs should remain dry during the summer when the bulb is dormant. Daffodils manufacture food that is stored in the bulb and helps produce flowers the following year. For this reason, foliage should be allowed to remain on the plant for about eight weeks following blooming. Flower heads should be removed promptly following flowering to prevent seed heads from forming.
Properly spaced bulbs will need dividing only every five to ten years. The need for division become obvious when flower size becomes smaller. To divide, dig the clump of bulbs after flowering has occurred, and the foliage is dying back but can still be seen. After digging, remove excess soil and allow the bulbs to dry in a well-ventilated location out of direct sunlight. After the bulbs are dry, offsets may be removed from the parent bulb and stored in a dry, cool location with good air movement until October when they should be replanted.
David Trinklein, Associate Professor of Horticulture, UMC (573) 882-9631
|
|
|