Consider Cabbage

Each year the National Garden Bureau selects a vegetable to promote and 2007 has been designated by that organization as "The Year of Cabbage and Kale". Their choice is a good one for cabbage and kale are among the hardiest and most nutritious vegetables a home gardener can grow with ease. Both are attractive in the garden, with colors ranging from pale green through dark blue, to deep reddish purple. Flavors range from mild to strong, and both lend themselves to dishes both raw and cooked. March is an ideal month to plant some early cabbage if one is able to given it a bit of protection from the cold.

History

Cabbage has a more storied history than does kale. Greek and Roman colonists brought cabbages to the Black Sea region; Slavs were growing cabbages in the 9th century. Soon cabbages worked their way north into Russia. Within several centuries, Russian princes paid tribute with garden plots planted with "kapusta" (as they called cabbage) in addition to gifts of racing horses and jewels.

The Celts of central and western Europe were influential in making cabbage a popular food plant. The first written record of "white" cabbage (hardheading) was by Albert of Cologne in the 13th century. In 14th century England, the distinction was made between heading and non-heading kale or coleworts, as they were then called, but it wasn't until a century later that descriptions of heading cabbages were made in Europe. The English grew loose heading, crumpled-leaf Chou de Savoys (named for the Italian province) in the 1500s. The first record of "red" cabbage in England was in 1570.

Photo courtesy of All-America Selections

On his third voyage in 1542, Jacques Cartier planted cabbage in Canada. Because of its popularity in Europe, it is believed that early colonists grew cabbage in the United States; however, the first written record was not until 1669. By the 1700s, both the colonists and Native Americans were growing cabbage.

Chinese cabbage has been cultivated and grown in Asia from earliest times, although it is not mentioned in Chinese literature until the 5th century. It was introduced from China to Japan in the 1860s; in the 1880s and 1890s immigrant laborers brought it to America.

Kales, with their loose leaves, are the most primitive members of the cabbage family. Their origins are in the eastern Mediterranean area and Asia Minor. Kales have been food crops since about 2000 B.C.

In 350 B.C., Theophrastus described a savoyed form of kale. In Europe, kale was the most common green vegetable until the end of the Middle Ages. The first mention of kale in America was in 1669; but because of its popularity in European gardens it was probably introduced earlier. Russian kale was brought to Canada (and then the U.S.) by Russian traders in the 19th century.

Celtic knowledge of cabbage was so ancient as to have influenced the Latin name, Brassica (from the Celtic word bresic, meaning "cabbage"). "Cabbage" is an Anglicized version of the French caboche, which means "head." The term has been used to refer to loose--and even non-heading forms of Brassica oleracea as well as to the modern hard-heading cabbage, classified as B. oleracea Capitata group. Kale is Brassica oleracea Acephala group (Acephala meaning non-heading). Chinese cabbage is more closely related to mustard than cabbage, as its botanic name reveals: Brassica campestris Pekinensis group. They are all members of the cabbage family Brassicaceae (formerly the mustard family Cruciferae).

Types

The most common cabbages, Capitata or head-shaped group, are generally classified as one of three leaf and color types: green-leaved, which has smooth green leaves; red, with smooth reddish-purple leaves; and Savoy, with crinkled leaves. Within these three groups, the choices break down to head shape (round, conical or cone shaped, globe, or flat round), and harvest time (early, mid-season, or late). In all, the outer--usually darker--leaves are called wrapper leaves. Flat-headed cabbages are best for stuffi ng. Large, late cabbages are most flavorful and best for sauerkraut.

Chinese cabbages (also called Chinese celery) generally have elongated heads with broad, white-stalked, overlapping, savoyed (crinkled) leaves with a mild to slightly piquant flavor and a wonderful crunch. Not to be confused with Chinese mustards, which have a much bolder flavor. Best used raw in salads, excellent in stir-fries. Unlike most cabbages, they are tolerant of hot weather and can be grown throughout the season.

Kale is a Scottish word derived from coles (Greek) or caulis (Roman), terms that refer to the whole cabbage-like group of plants. The German word kohl has the same origin. Kale can grow in northern climates--often well into winter. In summer, as the weather warms up, the flavor of spring planted kale becomes more intense--almost bitter. Kale actually tastes sweeter and tastier after being exposed to a light frost.

Although kale varies in color from pale yellowish to deep green through deep steely blue to purplish red and almost black, it is usually classified by the leaf form and texture--Scotch types have very curled and wrinkled leaves, Siberian (or Russian) types are almost flat with finely divided edges, while heirloom 'Lacinato' is in a class of its own. Blue-green color is associated with greater cold tolerance. Japanese kale is primarily used for decorative purposes.

Growing

Both cabbages and kales prefer cool weather and can withstand light frosts. They grow best in full sun in rich (mix plenty of organic matter, such as compost, humus, well rotted manure, or leaf mold into the soil before planting), moist, slightly alkaline (pH 7.0) well-drained soil. To avoid any soil borne diseases, rotate crops; i.e., do not plant any members of the cabbage family (e.g., broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, mustard) in the same place for four years.

Photo courtesy of All-America Selections

Given the ready availability of inexpensive plants most gardeners grow cabbage and kale from started plants oppose to from seed. Choose healthy looking plants. Look under the leaves and along the stem for any sign of insects or insect damage, especially aphids. If you see small white moths with a black dot on their wings hovering, these are likely cabbage moths, which lay their eggs on the plants; don't buy these plants. Avoid rootbound plants or ones with roots hanging out the bottom of the pot or cell pack.

Care Keep plants lightly moist. This is especially important for plants started in the summer for fall and winter harvest. Side dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are half grown, or foliar feed every three weeks. Mulch with 1 to 2 inches of organic matter, keeping the mulch an inch away from the stem of the plant. Mulching helps keep the soil moist, feeds the plants, and controls weeds. Irrigation is especially important to help the young plants withstand the intense sunlight and heat of summer and to supply the developing heads with suffi cient water to develop quickly.

Among the most common pests are aphids and cabbage loopers. The small white moths in the gardens lay eggs that turn into cabbage loopers. Cover the plants with screening or floating row cover to prevent this. Control aphids by spraying with frequent hard blasts of water; try spraying with insecticidal soap or hot pepper spray.

Cabbage can be harvested anytime after the heads form. Cut the heads when they are solid (firm to pressure) but before they crack or split. Springy heads are not mature. For spring planted cabbages, cut the head only; do not pull up the whole plant. Cut as close to the lower surface of the head as possible; leave the loose outer leaves intact. Buds will grow in the axils of these leaves, forming "cabbage sprouts." Pick them when they are firm and 2 to 4 inches across.

Store late fall or winter cabbage for several months in humid conditions as close to freezing as possible. Store only disease-free heads. Pull out the cabbages and hang in a moist cellar, roots and all, or cut heads, remove loose outer leaves and spread one layer deep on shelves or pallets in a moist root cellar.

To harvest kale, pick outer leaves as you need them and kale will keep producing new inner leaves. Harvest when leaves are large enough for intended use. Tender young leaves are best for salad, older leaves for cooking. Frost improves the flavor of kale. Mature plants survive to 10 degrees or below. Mark the site so you can find the fresh greens under the snow.

Dark green leafy cabbage is high in Vitamin C, iron, and folate. Cabbage also contains beta-carotene, potassium, and phyto-chemicals, such as glucosinolates--proven to reduce cancer, especially lung cancer. The pale center leaves are much less nutritious. Avoid overcooking as this depletes the nutritional content. Raw red, green, or Savoy cabbage has about 20 calories a cup; cooked it is 30 calories, while Chinese cabbage is only 11 calories a cup raw; 15 cooked, and is higher in Vitamin C than the other cabbages.

Whether raw or cooked, kale is a low calorie, high nutrition leafy green. A cup of raw kale has 60 calories; cooked it is 48 calories. Even cooked, where it can lose one-third or more of its nutritive value, a cup of kale provides the minimum daily requirement of Vitamins A and C and 13 percent of the calcium requirement. A good source of glucosinolates, Vitamin E, and manganese, kale is used as a green vegetable, steamed and served with butter or vinegar, or in soups. Unfortunately, kale is often used in salad bars as the decoration covering the ice rather than as a selection on its own.

Credit: National Garden Bureau

Dave Trinklein
Horticulture
TrinkleinD@missouri.edu