| Missouri Environment and Garden |
Volume 12, No. 4 |
| News for Missouri's Gardens, Yards and Resources |
April 2006 |
Proper Mowing Practices for Your Lawn
The common practice of mowing a lawn short, under
the assumption it will require less frequent cutting, is
responsible for much lawn deterioration. Mowing when
the lawn is wet will produce clumps of clippings that will
also lead to lawn deterioration. Mowing when the lawn is
under drought or heat stress can also injure grass plants.
Proper mowing practices will produce a crisp, even,
well-groomed appearance. Likewise, your mowing practice
will greatly influence the lawn’s density and growing vigor
along with water, fertilizer, and weed control needs. Very
simply, mowing height and frequency directly affects the
performance and requirements of a lawn.
Mowing height
Proper mowing begins with choosing the correct height
for your turf grass species. Cool-season grasses such as
bluegrass, tall fescue, and perennial ryegrass are generally
mowed at 2.5 to 4.0 inches high. The repeated mowing
of cool season grasses too low places the turf under stress
causing it to require more water. The resulting turf is
thin and weak and is highly susceptible to weed invasion.
Grass maintained at a taller height produces deeper roots
reaching more available water.
To prevent weed germination, mow frequently at the
tallest recommended mowing height. Weeds germinate
rapidly when turf is scalped by mowing too short or when
it is not mowed frequently enough. Both mistakes decrease
turf density and cause an open canopy that favors weeds.
Experts recommend a range of mowing heights to meet
specific turf activities. Lower mowing heights require
more frequent mowing. Annual grassy weeds -- such as
crabgrass -- are especially a problem on turfs that lack
density as the result of poor mowing.
- Kentucky bluegrass lawns -- mow 2.5 to 3.5 inches.
- Tall fescue lawns -- mow 3.0 to 4.0 inches.
- Fescue/bluegrass lawns -- 3.0 to 3.5 inches.
- Bluegrass/ryegrass lawns -- 2.5 to 3.5 inches.
- Creeping red fescues -- mow 3.0 to 3.5 inches.
Warm-season grasses, such as zoysiagrass, should be
mowed at 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 inches. In the spring (before
green-up), warm-season lawns should be mowed at a
low setting on your mower. This dead leaf and stem
tissue should be removed from the lawn. Mowing at a
low setting in spring increases the green-up rate, reduces
thatch accumulation and allows for easier and more
uniform mowing during the growing season. As the season
progresses, mowing height should be adjusted upward so
that by September you are mowing at 2 to 2-1/2 inches.
Warm-season lawns should be left tall (2 to 2-1/2 inches)
in the fall. Raising your mower height throughout the
growing season will result in a thick, vigorous turf.
Set the height of your mower by placing it on a flat
surface and measuring the distance from the ground to
the bottom edge of the blade. Make height adjustments as
needed.
Mowing frequency
The frequency of mowing will depend on the mowing
height and growth rate of your selected grass species. The
grass should be mowed when it has grown one-third taller
than the desired height (this is called the one-third rule).
Cool-season grasses in the spring and fall may require
some weeks with two mowings (5 to 6 day interval). The
same holds true for warm-season grasses throughout the
summer months. Mowing more frequently is not as much
extra work as you might think, because lawns mowed at
the proper height cut more easily and quickly. Failing to
follow the one-third rule results in the removal of excessive
leaf tissue, stressing the grass at a time of the year when
susceptibility to diseases runs high. This results in a
thinned turf canopy with a poor root system.
Raise the mower deck if mowing has been delayed due
to wet weather. Mowing heights can be slowly worked back
down, over several mowings, to your desirable height.
What to do about clippings
Many homeowners believe grass clippings need to be
removed to have a healthy, vigorous lawn. By following
the steps in the "Don’t Bag It" lawn care program, you
can have a beautiful lawn without collecting your grass
clippings. See MU Guide 6959 -- "Don’t Bag It Lawn
Care."
"Don’t Bag It Lawn Care" facts:
- Yard wastes, such as leaves, grass clippings and
branches, have been banned from Missouri landfills
since Jan. 1, 1992, and nationally since March 1995.
- Yard waste accounts for approximately 20 percent of
all waste materials.
- Up to 25 percent of your lawn's total fertilizer (25 to
30% nitrogen, up to 50% potassium) needs are supplied
by clippings left on the lawn.
- Clippings contain 80 to 85 percent water and decompose
quickly.
- MU research shows clippings do not contribute to
thatch problems.
- Average mowing time can be reduced by 30 percent
when grass clippings are not bagged.
When mowed regularly, clippings filter down through
the grass, decompose rapidly and recycle nutrients back
into the soil. Clippings should be uniformly distributed
rather than deposited in clumps. Mowing the lawn when
the grass is dry and using a properly sharpened mower
blade will spread clippings evenly.
Mulching mowers do an excellent job of working
grass clippings into the canopy of the lawn for a pleasing
appearance. Their action (blade design) chops clippings
and speeds their decomposition. Mulching mowers force
homeowners to mow more frequently, because they do not
operate easily in tall grass.
Besides saving time, you also save money by not having
to purchase bags or pay for extra trash removal.
Mower maintenance
A sharp blade is critical to a quality mowing job. Dull
blades beat and tear the grass leaving frayed leaf tips which
give a whitish or brown cast to the lawn. A sharp blade cuts
cleanly and easily, requiring less fuel. Inspect the blade after
each mowing checking for sharpness and for the presence
of nicks.
Another method of checking mower blade sharpness
is to look at the clipping that may collect on your mower
deck. Inspect the cut edges for a clean or jagged cut. Have
mower blades sharpened if edges start to look jagged.
How often you sharpen blades is dependent on
frequency of mowing and amount a square footage you
mow. Always sharpen blades to the same angle of the
manufactured edge and make sure the blade is properly
balanced to avoid excessive vibrations in the mower.
Falling autumn leaves
In autumn, it is not always necessary or even desirable
to remove all fallen tree leaves. Instead, increase mowing
frequency to mulch leaves back into the lawn. This practice
recycles essential nutrients that were mined by deep tree
roots back to the soil surface, making them available to
shallow, fibrous turfgrass and tree roots. University research
has shown that mulching tree leaves into lawns has no
detrimental effects on thatch or soil pH. Of course, there
are some limitations of this practice. Avoid mulching leaves
into the lawn when leaves are wet or when deposition is so
large (more than a 2-inch-high layer) that turf-smothering
clumps are left on the lawn.
Mowing is an important part of a lawn maintenance
program. Proper mowing height and frequency with a
sharp blade will result in a healthy beautiful lawn. Make
sure, however, to read and follow all of the manufacture’s
operation safety tips for your mower.
Brad S. Fresenburg
University of Missouri
Turfgrass Specialist
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