In 1842, Charles Minnegrode introduced the custom in Williamsburg, VA. Mark Carr opened the first U.S. retail Christmas tree lot in New York City in 1852. In 1856, President Franklin Pierce brought the first Christmas tree into the White House. President Calvin Coolidge began the annual ritual of lighting the National Christmas Tree on the White House lawn in 1923. In 1966, members of the National Christmas Tree Association started the tradition of presenting a real Christmas tree each year to the President and First Family.

SALES OF REAL TREES ARE UP

In a nationwide poll conducted last year for the National Christmas Tree Association (NCTA), purchasing the “real thing” became the “in thing” as 27.1 million consumers in the U.S. purchased a fresh Christmas tree – up 3.7 million from 2003. This represents the largest single year sales gain since the industry group began tracking consumer purchases. Consumers spent on average $42.60 per tree, generating $1.15 billion in retail sales of fresh Christmas trees, up from $791 million in 2003.

TOP-PRODUCING STATE

Not surprisingly, Oregon is the top producer in terms of number of trees harvested. However, state rankings vary depending on whether you focus on numbers of trees harvested, acres in production or number of farms. Either way you look at it, Missouri ranks 20th nationwide.

DISPELLING A MYTH

According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), approximately one-tenth of one percent (0.12 percent) of residential fires involve a Christmas tree – both real and artificial. In 1998, more than 32 million real Christmas trees were used in the U.S. Of these, only 0.00093 percent (297) were ignited in home fires. Overloaded electric outlets and faulty wires are the most common causes of holiday fires in residences.

COMMON CHRISTMAS TREE SPECIES

Among Missouri’s “choose-and-cut” farms, Scotch and eastern white pine are the two more commonly grown species. However, depending upon your location, you can find some species of spruce and fir, and even Eastern red cedar on a Christmas tree farm. Retail lots naturally buy their trees wholesale and have them trucked in. A lot of these retailers will also stock the more common Scotch and Eastern white pine. But, they also bring in large numbers of Douglas-fir and balsam fir. These latter species are often grown outside Missouri. To get them to markets here on time, they are usually cut in early November. So, the consumer really needs to check for freshness before purchasing these trees.

Here is another interesting fact for you trivia buffs—on average, it takes six to eight years to grow a seven- to eight-foot pine Christmas tree, but over 10 years to produce a similar size fir or spruce tree.

To help acquaint you with the species you are more likely to find on the tree farm or retail lot, here is a brief description of the major players:

Scotch pine
Pinus sylvestris L.
Scotch (or Scots) pine is an introduced species that has been widely planted for the purpose of producing Christmas trees. The needles of Scotch pine are variable in length, ranging from one to three inches, depending upon the variety. It is known for its dark green foliage and stiff branches that are well-suited for decorating with both lights and heavy ornaments. It has excellent needle retention characteristics and holds up well throughout harvest, shipping and display.

Eastern white pine
Pinus strobus L.
Native to the eastern United States, its needles are soft, flexible and bluish-green to silver-green in color. Needles can range from two-and-a-half to five inches long. The flexible branches do not lend this tree to very heavy ornaments at the branch tip. While sheared trees are preferred, some people feel shearing results in trees too dense for larger ornaments. Needle retention is good to excellent. White pine has very little aroma, but, conversely, is reported to result in fewer allergic reactions than do some of the more aromatic species.

Balsam fir
Abies balsamea (L.) Miller
The scientific name “balsamea” is an ancient word for the balsam tree, so named because of the many resinous blisters found in the bark. Needles are generally onehalf to one inch long and curve upward so as to cover the upper sides of the twigs. As a Christmas tree, balsam fir has several desirable properties. It has a dark green appearance, long-lasting needles and attractive form. It also retains its pleasing fragrance.

Fraser fir
Abies fraseri (Pursh) Poir.
In many respects, Fraser fir and balsam fir are quite similar. The species is sometimes called Southern balsam or Southern balsam fir. Needles are flattened, dark green, one-half to one inch long and curve upward like balsam fir. The combination of form, needle retention, dark blue-green color, pleasant scent and excellent shipping characteristics has led to Fraser fir being a popular Christmas tree species. North Carolina produces the majority of Fraser fir Christmas trees.

Douglas-fir
Pseudotsuga menziesii (Mirb.) Franco
Douglas-fir is not related to the true firs. The needles are dark green or blue-green, one to one-and-a-half inches long, soft to the touch and radiate out in all directions from the branch. They have a sweet fragrance when crushed. Nationally, it remains one of the most popular Christmas tree species. An interior strain from the Rocky Mountains (P. menziesii var. glauca) has been extensively planted throughout several Midwestern Christmas tree plantations. It is preferred because of its ability to withstand the more harsh growing conditions than the Pacific Northwest seed sources.

Colorado blue spruce
Picea pungens Engelm.
Blue spruce is finding increasing popularity as a Christmas tree as a result of its symmetrical form and attractive blue foliage. The species has an excellent natural shape and requires little shearing. Additionally, needle retention is among the best for the spruces. Its popularity as an ornamental leads many consumers to use blue spruce as a living Christmas tree, to be planted after the holiday season.

Virginia Pine
Pinus virginiana (Mill.)
Virginia pine’s needles are twisted and range from one-and-a-half to three inches long. The branches are stout and woody, their foliage can become extremely dense. This species pine has been the staple for the Christmas tree industry in the south since its inception. The one drawback is that its foliage tends to turn yellow and can require a considerable amount of colorant to produce a marketable tree.

Norway spruce
Picea abies (L.) Karsten
Like all spruce trees, the needles are four-sided, onehalf to one inch long, and sharp or somewhat blunt at the tip. For Christmas trees, overall color of Norway spruce is fair to excellent, but needle retention is considered poor unless the trees are cut fresh and kept properly watered.

Eastern red cedar
Juniperus virginiana L.
This tree is not a true cedar, but a member of the juniper family, as the botanical name implies. It is closely related to Juniperus scopulorum, the Rocky Mountain juniper. There are numerous cultivars of eastern red cedar. Many are characterized by color differences that vary from dark green to bluish-green, to silvery, to gray-green, to bronze and even to purple. Prior to the availability of plantation-grown Christmas trees, wild eastern red cedars were the tree of choice for many in Missouri. They were chosen for their natural conical shape and ready supply. These trees are usually available at choose and cut tree farms only.

DID THIS TREE GROW ON THE WAY HOME?

Measure the ceiling height in the room where the tree will be displayed. The trees in the field look small when the sky is the ceiling. Also measure the width of the area of the room where the tree will be displayed. Most trees on tree farms are trimmed to an 80 percent taper. So a tree that’s 10’ tall will be 8’ wide. A tree that will fit in the room vertically may be entirely too big horizontally.

CUTTING YOUR OWN TREE

Go to the farm prepared for a day in the country. Wear comfortable shoes and old clothes. Bring rain gear if the weather is threatening. The “cutter downers” and the “loader uppers” should also have gloves. Don’t forget the camera!

Most tree farms keep the fields well-groomed, but there are some things that are beyond the farmer’s control. Be careful of tree stumps, an occasional blackberry vine, uneven ground and sharp saws. Saws are usually provided by the farm operator.

It’s best to leave your dog at home (many farms will prohibit pets). But, if a pet is allowed and must come along; keep him on a leash at all times. Please don’t let him mark other people’s trees.

Some farms measure and price their trees individually, others sell them by the foot. Ask about the pricing policy before heading out into the field.

Check the trunk to be sure that it is sufficiently straight. Keep in mind that pines will usually have some crook in their trunks. Also check that the tree has a sufficiently long trunk above where you cut to accommodate your stand.

In the fall of the year ALL pines drop, or shed, a certain portion of their oldest needles. This is a normal part of the life cycle of the tree. This phenomenon occurs because the tree is preparing itself for winter. Most farms provide shaking or blowing services so that you will depart with a perfectly clean pine.

Cutting the tree is easiest as a two-person project. The “cutter downer” usually lies on the ground while the helper holds the bottom limbs up. While the cut is being made, the helper should tug on the tree lightly to ensure that the saw does not bind. The tugging force should be applied to the side of the tree opposite the cut.

Bring the tree to the processing area where it will be cleaned and netted. Netting makes transporting and handling the tree substantially easier.

BUYING AT A RETAIL LOT

Consumers should ask the retailer when he/she gets the trees: are they delivered once at the beginning of the season, or does he/she obtain several shipments during the season?

Do a freshness test on the trees. Green needles on fresh fir and spruce trees break crisply when bent sharply with the fingers – much like a fresh carrot. Pines have different indicators because of the fibrous nature of their needles. The needles on fresh pines do NOT break, unless they are very dry. A good rule of thumb is when in doubt about the freshness of a tree, select another one. If none of the trees on the lot look fresh, go to another lot.

In selecting a tree, make sure that the bottom of the trunk is long enough to allow it to fit into you tree stand. Otherwise, it will be necessary to remove large branches near the base, which could ruin the tree’s appearance.

TREE CARE TIPS

Once home, place the tree in water as soon as possible. Most species can go six to eight hours after cutting the trunk and still take up water. Don’t bruise the cut surface or get it dirty.

If needed, trees can be temporarily stored for several days in a cool location. Place the freshly cut trunk in a bucket that is kept full of water. The tree may need to be supported in some manner to keep if from tipping over.

Before bringing the tree into your home, make a fresh cut to remove a quarter to one inch thick disk of wood from the base of the trunk before putting the tree into the stand. Make the cut perpendicular to the stem axis. Don’t cut the trunk at an angle, or into a v-shape, which makes it far more difficult to hold the tree in the stand, and also reduces the amount of water available to the tree. Avoid whittling the sides of the trunk down to fit a stand. The outer layers of wood are the most efficient in taking up water and should not be removed.

Use a stand with an adequate water-holding capacity for the tree. As a general rule, stands should provide one quart of water per one inch of stem diameter. Make sure that your stand fits the tree. Some stands have circular rings at the top, so the ring must be large enough for the trunk to go through the hole. Other stands are open, which may allow a greater range in trunk size.

Do not use additives in the water, including floral preservatives, commercial tree preservatives, molasses, sugar, bleach, soft drinks, aspirin, honey and/or other concoctions. Adding water-holding gels to the stand is not beneficial, and they can reduce the amount of water in the stand that is available to the tree.

Keep displayed trees away from sources of heat (fireplaces, heaters, heat vents, direct sunlight). Lowering the room temperature will slow the drying process, resulting in less water consumption each day. Miniature lights will produce much less heat and reduce drying. Always inspect light sets prior to placing them on the tree. The temperature of the water used to fill the stand is not important and does not affect water uptake.

Check the stand daily to make sure that the level of water does not go below the base of the tree. With many stands, there can still be water in the stand even though the base of the tree is no longer submerged in water.

We hope that these helpful tips will encourage you to enhance your holiday season the natural way. Happy Holidays!

Hank Stelzer
Ag Ext.-Natural Resources
573-882-4444