| Missouri Environment and Garden |
Volume 10, No. 3 |
| News for Missouri’s Gardens, Yards and
Resources |
March 2004 |
Try Specialty Potatoes this Spring Part I
As spring approaches, it is time to begin thinking about the first
vegetables of the gardening season. Potatoes are among the most
satisfying vegetables to grow, but don’t limit yourself to growing
the same old round, white types of potatoes each year. There are
several potato varieties called “specialty potatoes” that you may
wish to try this spring. Specialty potatoes, instead of being round
with white flesh, come in a myriad of skin and flesh colors as well
as diverse shapes. Specialty potatoes have a unique flavor that
makes them ideal for many dishes. Restaurants and farmers’ markets
are excellent market outlets for such potatoes
Good quality seed stock is very important. Since specialty potatoes
are not widely grown, it is not likely that local seed stock will be
available in Missouri. Therefore, you may wish to buy certified
seed from a specialty potato nursery.
One of the most popular types of specialty potatoes is called
“fingerling types.” Fingerling potatoes yield small, long tubers
that are superb for roasting and boiling. Potential varieties of
fingerling potatoes include ‘Kipfel,’ ‘La Ratte,’ ‘French
Fingerling,’ ‘Austrian Crescent,’ ‘Rose Finn Apple,’ ‘Purple
Peruvian’ and ‘Blossom.’ Other varieties of specialty potatoes have
excellent quality such as ‘Red Gold,’ a mid-season, round potato
with lightly netted red skin and a yellow flesh. ‘Carola’ is a
late-season round potato with yellow skin and flesh that has been a
high yielding specialty potato in the Central Midwest. ‘Desiree’
is an excellent red-skinned variety, and ‘Purple Viking,’ with its
purple skin and red stripes, is an attractive potato at farmers’
markets. If you cannot plant your potatoes after arrival, store
them in a dark, cool place like a refrigerator. One pound of seed
potatoes will plant 10 feet of row.
As soon as soil temperatures reach 45°F, the potatoes can be
planted. For extra, early production of potatoes, gardeners can
use cold frames or high tunnels. A high tunnel is a solar-heated,
plastic greenhouse that permits vegetable growers to have vegetables
throughout the year for market. At the University of Missouri
Research High Tunnels (located in Columbia, Missouri), we planted
potatoes on February 20th. An additional layer of rowcover is placed
over the plants to protect against early freezes.
If you are planting in the open field, you will need to wait 2-4
weeks before the last frost in your area to plant potatoes. After
you receive your seed potatoes, you may wish to presprout them a
couple of weeks before planting which gives them a boost for earlier
production. Presprouting is accomplished by placing the potatoes
in a warm room (>50°F) until sprouts are observed on the tubers.
Indirect, medium light will form tougher sprouts. If some of the
sprouts break off during handling, don’t worry because they easily
grow back.
Gardeners can plant tuber seed pieces or whole tubers. If the seed
stock is small (size of an egg or less), whole tubers can be
planted. Larger seed potatoes can be cut in slices having 2 or more
eyes or buds per piece. Since the potato is a root (or more
accurately a tuber) crop, the soil needs to be loose and friable for
good growth. The optimum pH is 5.5-7.0. I prefer to plant potatoes
on a raised bed that keeps the soil warm and well-drained. Make a
6” deep trench and plant the seed pieces or whole tubers about 12”
apart. Cover the seed with 2-4” of loose soil. When the potatoes
sprout, rake some additional soil into the trench, making a hill.
Fertilizer can be applied at planting as a synthetic granular (for
example, 20-20-20) fertilizer banded to the side of the seed pieces
at about 0.4 lbs of nitrogen per 100 ft2. Compost can be added and
mixed with the soil prior to planting, or some gardeners will apply
about an inch of compost after the potatoes have emerged from the
soil. The hill method of potato culture provides enough soil to
form well-shaped tubers and prevents them from being exposed to
sunlight that can make them green and inedible.
The next article will discuss mulching, harvesting and storing
potatoes.
Lewis Jett, Assistant Professor & State Vegetable Crops Specialist, UMC (573) 884-3287
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